Choosing A Home Inspector

Electrical Safety in Your Home

Insulating Your House

Insulating Your HouseA well-insulated house is a bit like dressing for the weather. A wool sweater will keep you warm if the wind is not blowing and it is not raining but, on a windy, rainy day, wearing a nylon shell over your wool sweater helps keep you reasonably dry and warm. The outside of your house is covered with either brick or siding. Underneath these materials  is an air barrier that does the same thing as the nylon — it keeps the wind from blowing through. Then there is the insulation (like your sweater) and a vapour barrier, which helps keep moisture away from the house structure where it can do damage. While previous generations may have been content to live in drafty houses, today, most people want their home to be comfortable and warm. A healthy house is well sealed, well insulated and properly ventilated. How can you tell if you need to improve your home’s insulation?In the winter· walls cold to touch· cold floors· high heating costs· uneven heating levels within building· mold growing on wallsIn the summer· uncomfortably hot inside air· high cooling costs· ineffectiveness of air conditioning system· mold growing in basementR values and their metric equivalent, RSI values, are a way of labelling the effectiveness of insulating materials. The higher the R value or RSI value, the more resistance the material has to the movement of heat. Insulation products sold in Canada are labelled with R and RSI values. Provincial building codes specify minimum R (or RSI) values for new construction, with different values for different applications. It is important to know what your local building code requires when planning new construction. Also worth mentioning is that the way the insulation is installed plays a large role in its effectiveness. Compressing the insulation, leaving air spaces around the insulation and allowing air movement in the insulation all reduce the actual R value of the insulation.Effective insulation systems slow the movement of heat and deal with the movement of moisture at a reasonable cost. To do this, they have the following:· An air barrier, which prevents the movement of interior or exterior air through the system.· Carefully filled cavities, which leave no gaps in or around the insulation and which do not compress the insulation.· A minimum of thermal bridges. These are parts of the wall that, with a lower R value, extend from the warm side to the cold side of the insulation, giving heat an easy escape. The structural members in the wall will often be thermal bridges.· A vapour retarder, such as polyethylene sheeting, which prevents moisture from moving from warm interior spaces into a colder building envelope where it could condense.· Drying potential, which is the ability of the insulated assembly to release any moisture that gets into the system.The attic is often the most cost-effective place to add insulation. Usually, a contractor blows loose fill into and over the top of ceiling joists. For the do-it-yourselfer, batts laid sideways on existing insulation are an easy alternative.The air barrier at the ceiling line must be tight to ensure warm moist air from the house does not get into the cold attic and condense in the winter. Check ceiling light fixtures, the tops of interior walls and penetrations such as plumbing stacks for air leakage.Ensure that soffit venting is not blocked by added insulation; baffles may have to be installed.Basement walls are unique because they must handle significant moisture flows from both inside and outside the house. The preferred method, from a building science perspective, is to insulate the wall on the outside with rigid insulation suitable for below-grade installations, such as extruded polystyrene or rigid fibreglass. Insulating the outside of the basement works well with dampproofing and foundation drainage. Rigid fibreglass or mineral wool acts as a drainage layer, keeping surface and ground water away from the foundation.The basement walls are kept at room temperature, protecting the structure, reducing the risk of interior condensation and increasing comfort. The disadvantages of insulating basement walls are: the disturbance of landscaping, the need to cover the insulation above grade and, the relatively high cost. Interior insulation can be used. This can be done when finishing the basement by using batt insulation in the stud cavities or by installing extruded polystyrene and strapping on the face of the perimeter walls. If the basement won’t be finished, you can install rolls of polyethylene-encapsulated fibreglass over the wall. The advantages of interior installation are cost and ease of construction. The disadvantages of interior installations are as follows:· The basement walls are now at the temperature of the soil or the outside. Any moist air moving through the wall from the inside will condense on the wall.· Usually, there is a moisture barrier against the foundation wall and a vapour retarder on the room side of the insulation. As a result, the wall has poor drying potential.Never apply interior insulation to a basement with moisture problems. You should  fix the moisture entry problems before insulating.The right insulation system can save you money, reduce the amount of energy you use and make your home more comfortable. Keep in mind that installation costs (including changes to the framing, cladding, and finishes) are usually the most expensive part of an insulation project. Check the cost, heat loss and heat gain of all available options. Review all details to ensure that moisture movement is handled correctly. You can then select the right insulating system. When in doubt, consult a professional.

Seller Inspections: Streamlining Real Estate Transactions

By: Rob Parker, RHI, CHI, CMI

Seller inspections, sometimes referred to as pre-listing inspections, are becoming more popular because they eliminate many of the pitfalls and hassles associated with waiting to do the home inspection until a buyer is found.  Often minor deficiencies can be fixed or corrected which if left undone may have had a negative influence on the buyer’s decision to place an offer on the home.  On the down side, discovery of major deficiencies, of which the owner previously was not aware,  may be a little difficult for the owner to accept; however, at least having this knowledge will allow the owner to either correct the problems or be prepared to negotiate. For example, assume  the seller has hired a home inspector who has determined the roof, although only 10 years old, is  in very poor condition and needs replaced. This is one area a qualified home inspector would definitely point out; therefore, the seller has two choices; 1) fix the roof or 2)accept less than asking because of the repair job required. Once the inspection has been done the  seller will have the  report available for review by the potential buyers .    Seller inspections are arranged and paid for by the seller, usually just before the home goes on the market but, can also be done after the house is listed, especially when the seller is concerned that they haven’t received any offers.  The inspection is a win-win-win for everyone, the seller, real estate agent and buyer.

Advantages to the seller:

• The seller can choose a fully qualified inspector rather than be at the mercy of the buyer’s choice of inspector.
• The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller’s convenience.
• The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, by providing information regarding repairs and other conditions, something normally not done during a buyer’s inspection.
• The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.
• The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don’t exist or have been corrected.
• A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which gives the seller time to make repairs and shop  for competitive contractors.
• The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.
• The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
• A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.
• The report might relieve a prospective buyer’s unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
• The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer’s inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.

Advantages to the real estate agent:

• Sellers can schedule the inspections at seller’s convenience with little effort on the part of agents.  Reports help sellers see their homes through the eyes of a critical, third-party, thus making sellers more realistic about asking price.
• Agents are alerted to any immediate safety issues found, before other agents and potential buyers tour the home.
• Repairs made ahead of time might make homes show better.
• The reports provide third-party, unbiased opinions to offer to potential buyers.
• Seller inspections eliminate buyer’s remorse that sometimes occurs just after an inspection.
• Seller inspections reduce the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• Seller inspections relieve the agent of having to hurriedly procure repair estimates or schedule repairs.

Advantages to the home buyer:

• The inspection is done already.
• The inspection is paid for by the seller.
• The report provides a more accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
• A seller inspection eliminates surprise defects.
• Problems are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
• The report might assist in acquiring financing.

Anyone buying or selling a home today needs to understand the importance of having a home inspection performed by a qualified home inspector and not by someone just claiming to be one. A qualified home inspector must meet certain education, experience and professional development standards each year in order to maintain their membership with a professional organization. Just because someone is a licensed engineer or other trades person, doesn’t mean they meet the  requirements to be considered a qualified home inspector. A further complication is that, in Ontario, there are many organizations (some are U.S. based) to which home inspectors can belong that do not have the same standards. You should review the following websites for the requirements for membership as well as a listing of registered members:

www.oahi.ca

www.ashi.org

www.nachi.com

www.certifiedmasterinspector.org

Even a fully a qualified inspector can make a mistake, and this is why you should also only hire a home inspector who carries E&O (Errors & Omissions) insurance. The cost of the inspection should be the last question you ask when in reality it’s usually one of the first. Those offering to do the inspection for free or some other ridiculously low amount, are usually lacking in one or more of the above requirements and like everything else in life, “you get what you pay for.”

Roofing

By: Rob Parker, RHI, CHI, CMI

Roofs play a key role in protecting you and the interior of your home from outside weather conditions, primarily moisture. Roofs also provide protection from the sun. In fact, if designed correctly, roof overhangs can protect the building’s exterior walls from moisture and sun. Most roofs last many years if properly installed and maintained. Maintenance includes cleaning the leaves and debris from the roof’s valleys and gutters. Debris in the valleys can cause water to wick under the shingles and cause damage to the interior of the roof. Clogged rain gutters can cause water to flow back under the shingles on the eaves and cause damage, whatever the roofing material may be including composition shingle, wood shake, tile or metal. While seasonal changes in the weather are considered one of the most destructive forces, the best way to preserve your roof is make sure the attic is properly insulated, vented and to stay off it!  

Concerns regarding moisture, standing water, durability and appearance are dependent on the type of roofing materials used:

Wood shakes offer a natural look with a lot of character. Wood offers some energy benefits. It helps to insulate the attic, and it allows the house to breathe, circulating air through the small openings under the felt rows on which wooden shingles are laid. A wood shake roof, however, demands proper maintenance and repair, or it will not last as long as other products. Mold, rot, and insects can be a problem. The life cycle cost of a shake roof may be high, and old shakes can’t be recycled. Most wood shakes are unrated by fire safety codes. Many use wipe or spray-on fire retardants, which offer less protection and are only effective for a few years. Some pressure-treated shakes are impregnated with fire retardant and meet national fire safety standards. Installing wood shakes is more complicated than roofing with composite shingles, and the quality of the finished roof depends on the experience of the contractor as well as the caliber of the shakes you use. The best shakes come from the heartwood of large old cedar trees, which are difficult to find. Some contractors maintain that shakes made from the outer wood of smaller cedars, the usual source today, are less uniform, more subject to twisting and warping, and don’t last as long.

Metal roofing products consist of steel or aluminum, although some consist of copper and other metals. Steel is invariably galvanized by the application of a zinc or zinc/aluminum coating, which greatly reduces the rate of corrosion. Metal roofing is available as traditional seam and batten, tiles, shingles, and shakes. Products also come in a variety of styles and colors. Metal roofs with solid sheathing control noise from rain, hail, and bad weather just as well as any other roofing material. Metal roofing can also help eliminate ice damming at the eves. And in wildfire-prone areas, metal roofing helps protect buildings from fire should burning embers land on the roof. Metal roofing costs more than asphalt, but it typically lasts 2 to 3 times longer than asphalt or wood shingles.

Asphalt and Fibreglass are the most commonly used roofing materials. Asphalt products include shingles, roll-roofing, built-up roofing, and modified bitumen membranes. Asphalt shingles are typically the most common and economical choice for residential roofing.  The cost will vary depending on the quality of shingles used. For example, 15 year shingles will be much less expensive than 35 year shingles; however, actual life of the roof will depend on how well the roof has been maintained.

No matter how well maintained, at some point your roof will need to be replaced. Who do you hire? The best recommendation usually comes from friends or relatives who have used the service. You might also want to contact a professional roofer’s association for referrals.  Professional associations have stringent guidelines for their members to follow. The roofers association in your area will provide you with a list of available contractors.

Follow these guidelines when selecting a contractor…

• Get three references and review past work.
• Get at least three bids.
• Get a written contract and don’t sign anything until you completely understand the terms.
• If a deposit is required, get a receipt and don’t pay with cash.
• Don’t let payments get ahead of the work.
• Don’t make final payment until you’re satisfied with the job.
• Don’t rush into repairs or be pressured into making an immediate decision.

Once you’ve chosen the contractor, make sure everything is in writing. The contract protects you and the contractor by including everything you have both agreed upon.

• Where structural work is involved, your contract should call for all work to be performed in accordance with all applicable building codes. The building codes set minimum safety standards for construction. The contractor should obtain all necessary building permits. If this is not specified in the contract, you may be held legally responsible for failure to obtain the required permit. The building department will inspect your roof when the project has reached a certain stage and again when the roof is completed.
• Make sure the contractor carries worker’s compensation insurance and general liability insurance in case of accidents on the job. Ask to have copies of these policies for your job file.
• You should protect yourself from mechanics’ lien against your home in the event the contractor does no pay subcontractors or material suppliers. You may be able to protect yourself by having a release of lien clause in your contract.
• If you are financing your project, the bank or lending institution may require that the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers verify that they have been paid, before releasing funds for subsequent phases of the project.